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CAMRA's Brew Your Own British Real Ale: Over 100 Recipes to Try, by Graham Wheeler
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All of the authoritative advice and instructions of the previous edition in a new hard-wearing, lavishly illustrated format to better show methods and equipment
Written by a home-brewing authority, this guide includes detailed instructions for both novice and more advanced home brewers, as well as comprehensive recipes for recreating some of Britain's best-loved beers at home. Recipes are grouped by beer style, allowing home brewers to recreate popular and classic milds, pale ales, bitters, stouts, porters, old ales, and barley wines. Full instructions are included for both malt extract and full-grain brewing while section on brewing methods and equipment helps readers to choose the right brewing method for them and the right equipment to brew successfully. Includes dual measurements.
- Sales Rank: #1313303 in Books
- Published on: 2014-10-01
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.30" h x .70" w x 6.50" l, .84 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 240 pages
From the Back Cover
Cheers! Now you can brew your own
Bitters - Pale Ales - Milds - Porters - Stouts - Old Ales - Barley Wines
In this treaure chest of more than 100 homebrew recipes, you'll find precise recreations of all the well-known Real Ales from Great Britain's famous breweries including:
-- Bass
-- Boddington's
-- Eldridge Pope
-- Fuller's
-- Guinness
-- Young's
-- Marston's
--Sam Smith's
-- and many more!
Whether you're an old hand or new to brewing, easy-to-understand recipes and explanations of British homebrewing techniques and ingredients will help you get "Real."
About the Author
Graham Wheeler is the author of Brew Classic European Beers at Home and Home Brewing.
Most helpful customer reviews
24 of 24 people found the following review helpful.
A great resource
By GrundlagenS62
Wheeler's _Brew Your Own British Real Ale_ contains a great store of recipes for commercially produced British real ales. The first half of of the book is devoted to general discussions of beer and brewing. Wheeler's treatment of these topics is nowhere near as useful as Palmer's in _How To Brew_; the real value of the book is in the recipe section, which contains recipes based on information from the original brewers. I have enjoyed this book a great deal and I have found the recipes to provide a useful survey of British brewing conventions---my own brewing of British beer styles has improved as a result. Below I list a number of criticisms, but please don't lose sight of the fact that Wheeler's book is a great compendium of recipes and overall a great resource for anyone interested in producing ale in authentic British styles. Now to the criticisms:
(1) Wheeler gives malt bills in weights rather than percentages; percentages make it easier to convert a recipe to your own brewing system given a known target original gravity and your system efficiency.
(2) Recipes do not list the color ratings for the various malts included. "crystal malt" is not especially useful when a range of crystal malt from 10 L through 135 L and higher is available. I have had good success with British Crystal 77 L from Simpsons, but surely this is not the malt that all commercial brewers use for all their beers.
(3) In cases where I have an independent, reliable source for a brewery formula, Wheeler's recipe is often substantially different. Riggwelter from Black Sheep, for instance, is listed as containing sugar, but when interviewed on The Jamil Show on 3/29/2010, the head brewer claimed that sugar was not in the formula for Riggwelter. Additionally, from tasting comments in the same program, it was clear that a major flavor of the beer was contributed by pale chocolate malt (around 200 L), whereas Wheeler seems to have achieved the same color using a smaller amount of higher kilned chocolate malt (around 400 L), which would contribute a substantially different flavor. In another recipe, Adnams Explorer is listed as using exclusively Liberty hops, but Adnams claims to be using Columbus and Chinook on their own website; Liberty and Chinook are pretty dissimilar! Some of the variation surely comes from the revision of commercial formulas over time, but these examples don't inspire confidence in the accuracy of the recipes as a whole. Other recipes, like those for Fullers ESB and London Pride---see data given by Fullers in the the Sept/Oct 2008 issue of Zymurgy---and Worthington White Shield, seem to be spot on, but about half of the recipes I have independent sources for seem to be substantially different.
(4) A huge factor in the final flavor of a beer comes from yeast strain selection and fermentation practices. There are many different yeast strains available to home brewers, and Wheeler gives little advice about how to select appropriate strains for each of his recipes (his comments on yeast strains are generic and not tailored for different recipes). The recipes would be improved if Wheeler provided some guidance as to which sorts of yeast are more appropriate to particular beers---homebrewers have ready access to around 20 strains of yeast originating from British breweries, and each strain produces a different beer from the same wort.
(5) The author says that in many recipes he includes a small addition of black malt to correct for color (perhaps because of a faulty assumption about the color level of a crystal malt addition, or perhaps as an alternative to brewers' caramel coloring or an extract like sinamar). Even in small quantities, these black malt additions will change the beer flavor. The basic strategy is fine, but it would have been nice to know exactly where a malt addition is made by Wheeler to correct color and where it reflects the actual practice of the original brewer.
(6) Dry hopping quantities are not given; dry hopped beers all contain the same generic instruction: "dry hop with a few cones of [insert hop variety]". A half ounce per five gallons seems to work pretty well in most British styles where dry hopping is appropriate, but that is at best a rule of thumb. Regarding hop schedules in general, Wheeler says that dry hopping and hopping in a hop back or whirlpool are more common than late kettle additions in commercial practice, but that his recipes substitute late kettle additions (sensibly since few home brewers use a whirlpool or hop back). nonetheless, it would have been nice to know where a late kettle addition in one of Wheeler's recipes corresponds to a commercial brewer's late kettle addition and where it corresponds to a hop back or whirlpool addition.
Points (2) through (6) suggest that the recipes are substantially a product of Wheeler's interpretation and inference just as much as they reflect commercial practices. I don't mean to suggest that Wheeler has made lots of bad interpretations and inferences, just that the book would be more useful if Wheeler had said where he was extrapolating or guessing and where he was using information from the original brewer. Of course many people just want a collection of recipes that will make nice tasting beer in roughly the intended style, and these collected recipes will certainly do that, but these recipes are not going to *clone* the commercial beer in many cases, even if you chance on an appropriate yeast strain. All of that said, I still recommend the book to any homebrewer interested in developing a better understanding of the range of British beer styles, especially in concert with other resources (like K. England's yeast strain chart available on Zainasheff's Mr Malty website). Those of us interested in British brewing and beer styles are indebted to Wheeler for his work in collecting so much information from commercial breweries and in general to the good work done by CAMRA to protect and preserve traditional British ale.
Cheers!
16 of 18 people found the following review helpful.
Great for British Beer Info
By William Wible, Jr.
For as long as I have been homebrewing, I have wanted to make English Ale. This book gives great info on making English Ale, from malt and hops, to great details on yeast types. This is one of my favorite homebrew references.
Do not fault this book for not providing cellarsmanship info. If you want info on casks and such, try 'The CAMRA guide to Cellarsmanship'. If you can't find it here, amazon.com UK has it.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
What ever happened to a distilled water color mash?
By Harold Melvin
I would like to offer a long needed counter to the complaints regarding the lack of a color rating (in Lovibond) for the Crystal malt in the recipes. If you know anything about crystal and color you know that the outcome of color is obviously the malting of the crystal and THE QUANTITY of the crystal in the recipe.
But which Crystal should we use? Mr. Wheeler does tell us in the text of the book, but most of us fail to take notice. Honest, it is there.
How do I know? I contacted the author, Graham Wheeler and here is his reply that helps make sense of his recipes and maybe why a lot of people "get" his recipes and rave about the book...
"Although some largish British commercial brewers have their malts made to their own specification, by tradition the typical standard crystal malt is what today we would call medium or standard colour. The colour does vary slightly between manufacturers from 120 EBC (about 60L) to about 170 EBC (about 85L), but 140 (about 70L) or 150 EBC (about 75L) is usual. I used 150 EBC (about 75L) in the recipes.
I did try to address this in a ham-fisted way in the paragraph on crystal malt where I said: "The recipes usually use standard crystal malt." I do not know how the word "usually" crept into that sentence. Perhaps I was subconsciously hedging my bets just in case I came across a brewer's recipe that used something other than standard. I should have said: "Standard crystal unless noted otherwise." As it happened all the recipes use standard.
It is only relatively recently that light and dark crystal malt have appeared, particularly on the British home brewing market. There was just "crystal malt" without qualification and it was expected to be about 140 EBC (about 70L). Indeed, some long-established commercial brewers are of the opinion that crystal malt of above about 200 EBC (about 100L) imparts an inappropriate burnt flavour to a beer.
You are doubtless aware that you can divide EBC by two to approximate Lovibond."
There you have it folks... Standard Crystal malt is someplace between 70 to 85 lovibond and they let the quantity in the recipe control the color.
I have sold brewers grain and will attest that only recently have color ratings have become consistent.
Up until a couple of years ago (10) have grains actually achieved any consistency of color and even today brewers have to make a test distilled water color mash to find out where their latest batch of grain is going to take them... now we open up a whole 'nother can of worms where it is the responsibility of the brewer to control his color, not the malster or a simple recipe to achieve consistent outcome of color and flavor.
The more we learn the harder it gets.
See all 15 customer reviews...
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